I spent three years and roughly $2,400 buying and returning clothes that claimed to be “gender-neutral” but were just men’s cuts with a different label. The shoulders were too wide. The hips were too tight. The crotch hung like a parachute. I finally stopped guessing and started measuring. Here’s what survived the purge.
Why Most “Unisex” Streetwear Fails (And How to Fix It)
The problem is simple: most brands take a men’s pattern, size it down, and call it unisex. That doesn’t work for anyone who isn’t shaped like a rectangle. I’ve tried this with at least six different brands—Stüssy, Carhartt WIP, Nike, Dickies, Uniqlo, and Eytys. The failures were consistent.
Shoulders are the biggest issue. A men’s size small often has 18-inch shoulders. That’s fine if you have broad shoulders. If you don’t, the seam sits halfway down your bicep. Hips are the second. Women’s and non-binary bodies often carry more curve through the hip, and a straight-cut men’s pant will pull across the thigh or gap at the waist.
The fix isn’t complicated: measure your shoulder width, chest circumference, and hip circumference before you buy anything. Then compare those numbers to the garment’s size chart. Ignore the S/M/L labels. They’re meaningless across brands.
I keep a Google Sheet with my measurements—shoulder 16.5″, chest 38″, waist 30″, hip 38″, inseam 28″. Every time I shop, I open that sheet. It saves returns and frustration.
What to Look For in a Truly Gender-Neutral Cut
Look for garments with dropped shoulders (the seam sits past your natural shoulder line), straight or slightly tapered legs (no aggressive hip flare), and adjustable waistbands (drawstrings or elastic). These features accommodate a wider range of body shapes without looking like a costume.
Brands that actually do this well: Eytys (their denim has a higher rise and straighter leg), Dickies (the 874 work pant in a size down), and Uniqlo (their wide-legged pants have an elastic waist and no gendered cut).
The 7 Pieces That Actually Work
After testing roughly 40 items, these seven are the ones I kept and wear weekly. They’re not all cheap, but they all fit. I’ve listed the exact versions I own.
| Piece | Brand & Model | Price (USD) | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oversized hoodie | Carhartt WIP Loose Fit Hoodie | $95 | Dropped shoulders, heavy cotton, no chest darts |
| Work pant | Dickies 874 (size down 1-2) | $55 | Straight leg, sits at natural waist, no hip taper |
| Denim | Eytys Mother Denim (straight leg) | $180 | High rise, straight through hip and thigh, 100% cotton |
| Chore coat | Uniqlo Men’s Work Jacket (size XS) | $70 | Boxy cut, no waist suppression, 3 pockets |
| T-shirt | Stüssy Basic Stretch Tee (size M) | $48 | Relaxed body, 1″ longer hem, no darts |
| Sneaker | Nike Air Max 90 (unisex sizing) | $140 | No gendered shape difference, wide toe box |
| Outer layer | Levi’s Trucker Jacket (men’s, size S) | $98 | Cropped boxy cut, adjustable side tabs |
I’ve bought the Carhartt WIP Loose Fit Hoodie in three colors. It’s the only hoodie I’ve found where the sleeves are long enough (34″ from shoulder) without the body being a tent. The Dickies 874 pant is a classic for a reason—but only if you size down. I wear a 32 in most pants; the 874 in 30 fits perfectly. The rise is 11″, which is high enough to tuck a shirt without looking like a grandpa.
Common Mistakes That Cost Me Money
I’ve made every mistake on this list. Don’t repeat them.
Mistake #1: Buying men’s small and hoping it fits. A men’s small in one brand is a men’s medium in another. I bought a Stüssy hoodie in men’s small—shoulders were 19″, body was 28″ long. I looked like I was wearing a borrowed coat. Returned it.
Mistake #2: Ignoring fabric weight. Lightweight cotton (under 200 gsm) drapes differently on different bodies. It clings to hips and shows every line. I now only buy hoodies and tees that are at least 280 gsm (Carhartt WIP is 340 gsm; Uniqlo’s heavyweight tee is 260 gsm). Heavier fabric hangs straighter and hides shape.
Mistake #3: Assuming “gender-neutral” means one-size-fits-all. It doesn’t. I tried a No Sesso pant that was supposedly unisex—it had a 14″ rise and no fly. That’s fine if you want that. I wanted a pant I could wear to the grocery store. Know what you’re actually looking for before you buy.
When NOT to Buy Gender-Neutral
If you have a very short torso (under 24″ from shoulder to waist), most gender-neutral tops will be too long. The Uniqlo Work Jacket in XS has a 26″ length—that’s short for a jacket, but still long on me. I had to hem it 2″.
If you have very broad shoulders (19″ or more) and narrow hips, men’s cuts will work out of the box. You don’t need gender-neutral cuts—you need men’s smalls. Save your money.
If you want something fitted through the waist and hip, gender-neutral isn’t for you. These cuts are designed to hide shape, not accentuate it. Buy something cut for your body instead.
How to Shop Secondhand for Gender-Neutral Streetwear
Thrifting is the best way to find pieces that work without paying retail. But you need a strategy.
I search men’s section, size small or medium for tops, and women’s section, size large or XL for bottoms. A women’s large often has a 30″ waist and 40″ hip—that’s closer to a men’s medium in the waist but with more room in the hip. I’ve found Levi’s 501s in women’s size 31 that fit better than any men’s 501 I’ve tried.
For outerwear, I search boys’ section, size 14-16. Boys’ jackets are cut shorter and narrower in the shoulder but often have the same chest depth as a men’s XS. I own a Carhartt boys’ chore coat (size 16) that cost $30 secondhand and fits perfectly. The same jacket in men’s XS is $80 and hangs to my mid-thigh.
For sneakers, unisex sizing is consistent. I wear a men’s 8 / women’s 9.5. The Nike Air Max 90 in that size fits the same regardless of which section I buy it from. Just check the size conversion chart.
The One Thing That Changed Everything
I stopped caring about the label on the tag. A men’s size XS from Uniqlo fits me better than a “gender-neutral” brand that costs three times as much. A women’s size L from Dickies fits me better than a men’s 30. The only thing that matters is the measurement—shoulder width, chest, waist, hip, inseam.
Write your numbers down. Keep them in your phone. Check every size chart. If the brand doesn’t publish a size chart with actual inches or centimeters, don’t buy it. Period.
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